We use Original Goodyear Welt production method.
Goodyear welting is the oldest, most labour intensive, and most durable of the the methods of construction.
All our Shoes by default are made using the GOODYEAR WELT CONSTRUCTION, which is renowned for its superior quality & longevity.
For more than 300 years, the Goodyear Welting process has been associated with excellence and superior workmanship. More than 60 craftsmen are involved in the process of manufacturing one of our Goodyear shoes, and they use between 25 and 50 different elements and pieces. All this involves a process with more than 120 handcrafted phases, from beginning to end.
Handcrafted tradition. How we made them?
The first part of the process is preparing the insole for stitching. This is done by creating a perpendicular “rib” that runs across the insole.
The second step is to last the shoe. This is done by stretching the out-sole over the last and attaching it, along with the insole, to the last.
Part three is the actual welting. At this point shoe-specific thread is sewn through the welt, the upper, and the insole rib. Through a separate stitch, the welt is attached to the out-sole.
Sign of exceptional quality
In 1872 Charles Goodyear invented a machine capable of stitching the welt to the insole, thus revolutionising the quality of footwear worldwide. Due to its longstanding heritage, little needed maintenance, waterproof durability and clean aesthetic, Goodyear method is highly valued in the high-end shoe market.
The Clicking Department in our workshop is the first stage of production. Our highly skilled Clickers ( whose name derives from the ‘click’ sound made when the knife is removed from the leather ) use predetermined patterns to intricately cut the shoe’s uppers and linings.
A Clicker’s knife is totally unique to the Clicker. Each operative design and grind the blade of their knife to their own personal taste and working preference.
Each clicking blade takes around 15-20 minutes to craft: 5-10 minutes to ‘fetch’ the blade, around 5 minutes to grind and several minutes to perfect the blade on the strop ( a piece of wood coated in thick cordovan leather ). Although a clicking blade only lasts a few weeks ( or even days ), the handles can last for decades upon decades.
Today, the department is made with a mixture of experienced hands (some with over 40 years’ experience) and trainees. The younger members begin with cutting the leather linings, leaving the experienced clickers to focus on cutting the upper leather, whilst slowly passing on their years of expertise.
A Clicker’s main responsibility is to examine the leather for defects and to ensure these are not included in the shoes. Leather defects can be found in the form of barbed wire or disease scars, growth marks or veins. An experienced Clicker needs to be knowledgeable and highly skilled, in order to maximise the usage whilst retaining the utmost quality.
Whenever you purchase from us you are getting the very best in craftsmanship and quality.
( Our Belgian Loafers & Belgian Monks are made using the CEMENTED SOLE CONSTRUCTION. This method is more suited for flexible shoes like our Slippers & Casuals and is also long lasting.)